So, I’m sad to be missing the David Livingstone talk at the Bata Shoe Museum on Wednesday, but I’ll be judging Fashion POP. I’m pretty excited for my second year as the Michael Kors of the Montreal fashion crowd. It’s going to be hard to choose from six handpicked up-and-coming fashion designers, each presenting a six-look mini-collection. (See our little preview down below! Who do you want to win?) The winner gets $1000, as well as a $500 gift certificate from Le Château and a feature in our very own publication. The event is free and open to the public, Wednesday, September 30th, 8PM (doors at 7) Espace Reunion (6600 Hutchinson Street). Come early for a good spot!

WORN also has a table at Puces POP Oct. 3rd & 4th, 11am - 7pm at St. Michel Church Hall (105 St-Viateur O). Come say hi!
hearts, Serah-Marie

girlfriend material by Charlotte Eedson
AU COURANT, LADYLIKE, SENSIBLE, REBELLIOUS, ROCKER

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
Cat Power!

What fabrics do you like to work with?
Cotton, but I’m a big fan of the planet so I will work with anything sustainable, discarded, etc. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.

What tools are you using to make your line?
A sewing machine my parents bought me at Sears, my trusty thread stand and PMA (positive mental attitude)!

How did you learn how to make clothes?
How did I learn to make clothes well? A tailoring course and a teacher named Tonia Weber, bless her heart (and patience!).

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
That’s a toss-up! Erdem dresses, Jeremy Laing basics, and Dace weekend wear!

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Le Chat Clothing by Flavie Lechat
youth, childishness, monsters, pyjamas, comfort, psychiatry

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
Emily Haines (the singer from Metric).

What fabrics do you like to work with?
Mostly silk voile and very light wool. I used to have this huge passion for fleece, but I’m trying to discover other materials and move toward higher qualities of fabrics.

What tools are you using to make your line?
A plain stitch machine and a serger, a mannequin, scissors and needles.

How did you learn how to make clothes?
My mother taught me at the age of eight and I have never stopped since. I don’t think I’ve spent a day without touching my machine since that time.

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
I love LIFETIME Collective brand from Vancouver!

Betina Lou by Marie-Eve Emond
feminine, pretty, timeless, fitted, chic

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
Audrey Hepburn.

What fabrics do you like to work with?
Finding nice fabrics and trimmings is one of my favourite parts! I like to work with natural fabrics (wool, cotton, silk, linen, and blends of these fibres) and sustainable fabrics (organic cotton and bamboo). I prefer solid fabrics, without prints or patterns. I do like some subtle and classic patterns such as stripes, mini-plaid, mini-herringbone, or mini-houndstooth. I try to find fabrics that can last for more than a few weeks (I think it’s worth paying a little bit more for quality).

What tools are you using to make your line?
Even though I have an industrial sewing machine, I still sew most of the time with a Kenmore machine that my grandmother gave me when I was 14 years old. I work closely with my size 2 mannequin dress form. Other than that, I need music, plants, daylight, and my laptop.

How did you learn how to make clothes?
I learned how to sew by hand with scraps of fabric that my grandmother would give me when I was a child. She eventually taught me how to use a sewing machine. I started designing clothes for myself when I was a teenager and tried to make my own patterns. Then, I got a job as an assistant costume maker at age 16. I finally went to LaSalle College and studied fashion design.

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
Pink Tartan

Contradict by Rachel Chan
futuristic, structure, strong, sleek, flowy

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
Lara Stone.

What fabrics do you like to work with?
Silk chiffon, PVC, any jersey, satin, and silk charmeuse.

What tools are you using to make your line?
A sewing machine, an overlock machine, a serger, boning, shoulder pads, and an iron.

How did you learn how to make clothes?
High school and Lasalle College

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
Travis Taddeo

La Fête by Emily Brunet
graphic, elegant, stark, unisex, recreation

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
Cary Tauben.

What fabrics do you like to work with?
All types of silk. Silk is the king of fabrics.

What tools are you using to make your line?
My grandmother’s sewing machine and patience.

How did you learn how to make clothes?
I was living in Spain and this Swiss girl Ophélie taught me the basics. The rest I taught myself.

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
Denis Gagnon.

Norwegian Wood by Angie Johnson
layered, modern, excessive, edgy, dark

If your line were to have a muse, who would it be?
If Patti Smith actually cared about fashion I like to think she’d wear a few of the things in this collection.

What fabrics do you like to work with?
I actually really enjoy working with almost any fabric, but some of the highlights in this collection are: scalloped lace, double sided jersey, yarn dyed plaid, satin, chiffon, sheer jersey mesh, elastics, and fringe.

What tools are you using to make your line?
My trusty sewing machine, serger, and my own two hands!

How did you learn how to make clothes?
It all started when my mom taught me to embroider at age six, and has never stopped since. I credit most of my ability to my mom, many many books, and lots of practice. I also went to university to study clothing and textiles, but the “learning how to make clothes” part of things was pretty much taken care of before I got there.

Who is your favourite Canadian fashion designer?
Jeremy Laing

So that’s all the ladies - who are you rooting for to win?

Montreal designer Yana is probably going to end up single-handedly saving the world from an environmental crisis. One visit to her Etsy store, Supayana, shows not only the adorable shirts and dresses she makes from vintage clothes and fabrics, but that she tries to remain environmentally conscious in all aspects of her life, like recycling whenever possible and biking to the post office, ensuring that those who buy from her store are supporting an earth-friendly way of life.

How did you first get started with making and selling clothes?
I started making clothing the same way as lots of people. Starting with doll clothes, and then experimenting with real people clothes; I wanted something really unique and fun. As a high school student I couldn’t afford designer clothes, so I just learned how to make my own. The clothes I made in high school were pretty hilarious and terrible… but I got better with practice. When I was in university I started selling my handmade clothing on eBay. At the time it was a way of paying for my textbooks and having extra spending money. I was studying speech pathology, not fashion, but I knew deep down inside that I wanted to design clothing for a living. A few years later, it became a self-sustaining business, so after I graduated, I decided to do fashion full-time. It’s been amazing ever since, and I am so lucky to make a living doing what I love.

Do you prefer designing in Montreal or New York? What are the differences?
Selling online allows me to live and work anywhere, providing there’s an internet connection and a post office! I moved to Montreal two years ago from Brooklyn, NY, and I love it here. I do miss NY from time to time, but my life here feels so luxurious in comparison! Now that I’ve had a little taste, it’s pretty hard to go back. I’m also much more relaxed since I’ve moved to Montreal. Maybe a little too relaxed! I find myself smiling at strangers in the subway when I go back to NY, and I think it freaks them out.

Fashion-wise, I think Montrealers have more interesting vintage/second-hand style, and New Yorkers tend to dress in trendier designer clothing. Probably because Montrealers have access to amazing vintage and second-hand clothing, and New Yorkers have more independent boutiques to choose from.

How do you feel about the “going green” trend that so many fashion magazines have been going on about lately?
I welcome this trend with open arms! It’s about time this idea has spread into the mass media. There is, however, the problem of “greenwashing” (making a product seem eco-friendly when it actually isn’t). For example, I saw these “eco-friendly” sweaters at a popular department store in Montreal, and then when I checked the fiber content, it was like 90% acrylic and 10% bamboo. Ten percent? Woop-di-doo! Or how certain products claim to be “eco” and they’re packaged in two layers of plastic and a glossy coated cardboard box. Read the fine print and find out if whatever you are purchasing is as “green” as it claims. It’s not fair for companies to do this, especially when people are trying to make the right choice.

Do you feel that there is a tight-knit community of sellers on Etsy? How do you find it useful to your business?
Yes, definitely! Well, it just so happens that most of my real-life friends sell on Etsy as well. It’s useful to be friends with other sellers because you can help each other out with finding new retail locations, getting advice about your shop, just getting good business advice in general.

Yana’s Top Ten Etsy Sellers (in no particular order)
Sarahseven
Leanimal
Joodito
I’m Your Present
I Heart Norwegian Wood
Ruffeo Hearts lil Snotty
Neneee
Desira Pesta
Dear Birthday
Armour Sans Anguish

- interview by Anna Fitz

There’s a certain glamorous aspect to being at a fashion show –- any sort of fashion show. As long as there’s pulsating music and the flash of the photographer’s cameras, I’m sure you could parade a line of models down the runway wearing nothing but cardboard boxes and it’ll still have the feel and excitement of Parisian haute couture. So I was excited when I found out I was going to the Ryerson School of Fashion show at Toronto’s LG Fashion Week (and no, I am pleased to report that none of the designers used cardboard). I attended the show with Worn Crush, Norwegian Wood’s Angie Johnson (who was recently recognized for her fringe necklaces in this weekend’s National Post), and my old friend, Erica, who, in her own words, “likes fashion, but doesn’t really follow it.” It was interesting to attend an event with two women of very different fashion industry perspectives (although I can safely say we were all equally fawning over the Barbie exhibit taking place just outside the show – Holly Golightly Barbie, anyone?)
from other projects in order to create a new piece.

The show consisted of six former students who graduated from Ryerson’s School of Fashion 2008 program: Kat Marks, David Chou, Dayna Phillips, Sara Duke, Heidi Ackerman and Sidney Holloway. I had no idea on what to expect for the runway. Considering how my own DIY capabilities extend about as far as stringing painted macaroni together and calling it a necklace, it’s always inspiring seeing people my age turning out much more complex visions.

The first designer, Kat Marks, was by far the most experimental. She seemed to draw her inspirations from other avant-garde designers: her thermoplastic back braces extended into exaggerated hips (very Balenciaga-esque), and the over-the-top ornaments on the shoulders (ranging from gilded wings to black padding so heavy that the models had to prop them up as they walked) was reminiscent of the Comme des Garçons Fall 2008 show. In contrast, David Chou took a much more minimalistic approach to his collection (which was Erica’s favourite because “it was the most wearable”). While his silhouettes were simple, his charm lay in the subtle detailing: sleek blazers with layered lapels, pencil skirts with ruched pockets and darting on the back of the hem, and slim trousers with a bit of frill going down the back edges.

Heidi Ackerman had designed a set chunky knit sweaters in warm colours like orange, deep purple and cream. Angie observed that “it’s nice to see a Canadian designer recognising our cold weather and doing something creative with knitting.” Although I agreed, the practicality of one particular sweater dress lacking arm holes — modeled by a girl who seemed terrified of the possibility that she might trip — was definitely up for debate.

The show ended on a fun note, with a collection that can only be described as “snazzy.” Pillbox hats covered in sequins with huge bows and veils, a fur vest that seemed to be dipped in glitter, lots of little black dresses with bedazzled sashes and a white gown with fur stole and a train on the end; it was a bit ironic then, when the designer Sidney Holloway (who participated in the Fur Council of Canada’s fur mentorship program) came out in an Iron Maiden t-shirt and a Harley Davidson cap.

Overall I was left impressed with the show. Each designer already seemed to have a distinct style and technique that it was easy to forget they only just graduated fashion school. There was enough variety between the designers that Erica, Angie and I, three women with different tastes, all walked away liking elements of the show, something that doesn’t happen often (except for of course that Audrey Hepburn doll). It was refreshing to see an eclectic mix of clothes showing in our own city.

text by Anna Fitzpatrick, photography by Sidney Halloway, outfit by Lexi McKenna

interview by Laura Hensley
Manitoba born designer Angie Johnson is the founder of design label Norwegian Wood. Her handmade line consists of revamped vintage pieces and original designs all created her in Montreal apartment. When she is not sewing copious amounts of goods and running her own boutique Headquarters with her partner, Tyson (and of course reading Worn), you can find her on her blog hqgalerieboutique.blogspot.com, and her Etsy store I Heart Norwegian Wood.

When did you know you wanted to be a designer?
Since I was about 9 years old. I remember only colouring in the clothing in colouring books, and learning to embroider when I was about 6, and being really into the clothes in my mom’s old Betty & Veronica comics (I used to trace and then draw my own clothes on - I still have them!). I also did the classic “sew some clothes for your Barbies” before moving on altering the clothes I found in my grandparents basement in my early teens. Soon after that I started sewing from patterns, and when I was about 16 I started selling my designs in local boutiques. It’s kind of just always been there, so it was really never a question of NOT doing it, more of “in what WAY am I going to do this..”

Why did you decide to make the move from Manitoba to Montreal? How did that move affect your creative outlook?
I had always told myself that if my BF (at the time) and I broke up, I would move to Montreal, and lo and behold, we did indeed break up. My job in Winnipeg with Silver Jeans was going well and I wasn’t sure what to do. And then I met Tyson. We dated for a few months in Winnipeg, then he suggested that I move to Montreal at the same time as him, and the rest is history. Oh and now we’re engaged, whoa! Who knew that whole thing would work out so well!

It undoubtedly had a huge impact on my creative outlook. Winnipeg is a small city, with limited resources in terms of inspiration. When I moved to Montreal I got a job as an assistant designer right away. I learned a lot, worked with a great team, got to travel to Hong Kong and the States and work on designing from a different perspective than I’d been able to before. From that job I moved into a position at a new company as the head designer where I did a lot of traveling all over the world, as well as learning about the local manufacturing industry and business in general from my boss at the time. In the end, the move helped me reach opportunities that just wouldn’t have been possible in Manitoba.

What is the most challenging aspect of running your own business and design label?
Well, this is a pretty boring business-y answer, but cash flow is probably the most challenging thing! I remember being in entrepreneurship classes and the teacher would always be talking about cash flow, and saying how it was one of the most important things, but I didn’t really GET it until now. Basically if I get an order for 20 skirts or something, and I don’t have the cash flow to buy the fabric, I’m kinda screwed. Juggling everything so that there’s money to re-invest back into the business is a challenge.

What has been the most successful point in your career so far?
Hmm, it’s kind of hard to pin it down to one point… maybe I just get excited really easily, because I feel like I’ve had lots of great little successes over the past few years. But I think I actually feel like right now I’m the most successful I’ve ever been, because I’m finally doing my own line full time, as well as helping Tyson with the store. Some of the highlights so far I guess have been:
- Working with Susie from Style Bubble on a custom dress
- Having a bunch of amazing fashion bloggers from around the world blogging about my stuff and wearing it, it’s the hugest compliment in the world!
- Selling some leggings to Courtney Love (my 14 year old self would have lost it, my 28 year old self was ever so slightly more calm)
- Selling my very first item on Etsy to Todd Oldhams BF. Todd was one of my first favorite designers when I was about 11 so this blew my mind!
- Being at home every day just working on my own designs, it’s really great.

Do you think the age of online technology has significantly helped your company?
I literally say “thank god for the internet” almost every day, and I definitely say “thank god for Etsy” every day! I absolutely could not be running the business the way I am without either. Of the total sales I make each month, I would say only about 1-5% is to Canadians. So instead of limiting my sales to whatever businesses I could reach in person the internet allows me to reach the entire world, which is the “small” detail that allows me to be in business. So instead of having to move to a major city like New York or London and increase my costs, I can stay in Canada, but reach those fashion savvy customers in the bigger cities. Plus I really like reading blogs.

What is your best piece of advice for new upcoming designers that are trying to break into the industry?
Get some experience at an established company, but go in with a good attitude. If you have little to no experience, you’ll probably start off in a really shitty position (don’t worry, it’s normal!) but if you have a good attitude they’ll notice right away, and will give you some fun and interesting jobs and you’ll learn a lot. But if you go in with a shitty attitude, they won’t help you at all. Do that for a few years, and you’ll learn so much you’ll be REALLY prepared to do your own thing, if that’s what you want to do (some people decide they actually really like working for larger companies, which is totally legit too!)

Angie’s Top 10 fashion blogs
1 - Style Bubble
2 - Kingdom of Style
3 - The Coveted
4 - Bits and Bobbins
5 - luluandyourmom
6 - Karla’s Closet
7 - Jak and Jil
8 - childhood flames
9 - Disney Roller Girl
10 - That’s Just My Vibe