Gabi Gregg of Young, Fat, & Fabulous

What comes to mind when you hear the word ‘fat’? Do you think of Nutrition Facts labels and the first column you look at before deciding whether to buy the crackers? Or maybe you think of elementary school, when the best insult little boys could come up with for girls was “well… you’re fat!” (Good for you, little boys. You’re… dumb.)

Well, I don’t think of anything - or I try not to. To my editor’s dismay, I generally refuse to use the word, except when referring to this blog post. (”What are you working on right now?” “The ‘Fear of Fat’ blog post… Social networking…” “Hey, you said it! You said ‘fat’!”) She thinks “fat” should be used as an adjective, just like “thin,” or “tall,” or “short.” It shouldn’t be a negative thing - not if it’s true. I have a hard time agreeing with her. Nobody wants to be called “fat,” is my rebuttal.

But why not?

It’s not that I have memories of being called “fat” as a kid. In fact, despite being technically - or pretty close to - a “plus-size” (even though I refuse to buy plus-sized clothing, but that’s just a whole other story) for most of my life, I don’t ever remember being described that way. I still have friends who call themselves fat to get others to argue that they aren’t - something else I refuse to do. Be warned: if you call yourself fat, I’ll probably just agree with you, even if you’re a size 4. Because, what’s fat, anyway?

A few weeks ago, I stumbled across Gabi Gregg’s blog, Young, Fat, & Fabulous. “She’s almost the same size as me,” I thought. And she is. And she calls herself fat without cringing. And she doesn’t feel bad about it.

Can you tell me what you think of the word “fat”?
I think the word fat is unfortunately extremely stigmatized in our society, and that needs to change. Just because someone is fat does not mean that they’re lazy, unhealthy, unworthy, ugly, sloppy, or any of the other things that many people unfortunately associate with the word.

The word seems to have several negative connotations - many people I’ve talked to have said this is because “nobody wants to be called fat.” Why do you think that is?
We grow up in a society that tells us that being fat is a bad thing. We are constantly inundated with messages and images that portray thinness as the ideal and fatness as this “evil” thing to avoid at all costs. That’s why many people don’t want to be called fat, even when they are fat. It’s understandable because of what we are taught, yet that does not mean it’s okay. People should reevaluate the word! Being fat is simply a description of someone’s body type.

What do you think of the common association of “fat” with poor health?
I think that there are healthy fat people and unhealthy fat people, just like there are healthy skinny people and unhealthy skinny people. I don’t think anyone is arguing that it’s good to sit around all day and eat ice cream for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. However, it’s important not to assume anything about anyone’s health based solely on their weight. A size 16 woman might well be healthier than a size 6 woman. It depends, and it’s important to realize that other people’s bodies and health are not anyone’s business but their own.

My editor thinks that the word should be used as a descriptor, just like you would call someone thin. Nobody would get mad at you for calling them thin, but some people would definitely be offended if you called them fat. What do you think about that?
I agree 100%. It would be nice if the word fat could be de-stigmatized and used simply as a way to describe people. That is how I use it.

With your blog, you refer to yourself and other plus-sized girls as fat. Clearly you are working to change the meanings or associations the word possesses. Why do you think it’s important to embrace the word “fat”?
I think that giving other people power over the word does no good. Once fat people embrace the word “fat” and stop fearing it, they don’t have to walk around wondering if other people think they are fat or not, or be afraid someone will use the word against them. When someone calls me fat now, I just nod. It’s not an insult to me. I use the word in my blog, because too often fat people are thought to be ugly and unfashionable. I wanted to juxtapose the word fat with fabulous and show people that it’s possible to be stylish at any size.

- Stephanie Fereiro. Photos from YoungFatAndFabulous.com.

There has been a lot of discussion among WORN staff lately about the issues surrounding diversity of models in the fashion world. It is a loaded topic, encompassing such controversial areas as manufactured diversity, political correctness and the effect of one predominant choice of model on women’s concepts of beauty. Mainstream fashion’s obsession with the skinny white girl has superseded trendiness, and although history is full of a variety of idealized body types, I think many people are beginning to find fashion’s preoccupation with size-zero and blank stares a little stale. Exclusivity is a selling point in fashion, but when intelligent women begin to question themselves for being healthy…well, it gives you some food (no pun intended) for thought. (Please note – I am not claiming all mainstream fashion supports size-zero culture, or that all women even take note of it, I am merely noting its current dominance.) This is why I was so excited to have the opportunity to observe FAT (Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week)’s open-call model casting process, which stipulated that it would be looking for a diverse group of unconventional models.

FAT’s model search is in preparation for its four day festival in April, which will showcase “fashion design, photography, installation, video, performance, music and dance, in an effort to push forward and redefine our perception of the fashion phenomenon”. In this spirit, FAT encouraged models of all size, ethnicity and age to try out. I was intrigued to see how “unconventional” would be defined in the context of a festival promoted as “alternative”. The name “FAT” suggests a dramatic departure from mainstream ideals, but also seems like it could be an oversimplification. Intrigued, I asked festival Director, Vanja Vasic about it. She describes FAT as meaning, “full of life, energy and meat” (as well as being the backward acronym for “Toronto Arts and Fashion”). Fair enough, but the name is only the tip of the unconventional iceberg…

The FAT model judging panel, including Ben Barry (famous for his work advocating for “real women” in campaigns such as Dove’s Real Beauty) claim they are looking for models who possess an engaging personality and well represent Toronto’s diversity. Despite this, most of the models I saw were mainly in their 20s and on the medium to slim side. This however, probably says more about the perceived requirements for modeling in our skinny white girl obsessed world, wherein modeling outside of those boundaries seems fairly limited.

The casting did seem to bring together a unique group of individuals from a style perspective; including one woman, decked out in head-to-toe pink, who strode around the room in platform PVC boots and sparkly blush. Chatting with her, I learned she is a nurse and does modeling on the side. She came to the FAT open call because the nature of the event spoke to her love of the avant-garde, referencing McQueen, Dior, and Westwood as inspirations. Another model I spoke to was an 18 year-old design student (with fabulous white eyelet ankle boots), who hoped to gain insight into the industry. There was certainly a range of hair colours – neon blue isn’t a mainstream runway staple – and exposed tattoos and a black cat-suit/corset combination drew compliments from the judges instead of the requisite raised brows.

Vanja proposes the selection process for models is simply “choosing people who are great, who can bring something to the event” and that choosing people on an individual and not stereotypical basis brings a natural range in the models. Making shows more inclusive and engaging for the audience excites me, but going to the casting, I was aware of the inherent potential for things becoming too politically correct – like when you see a department store ad with three girls of different ethnicities hanging with a “nerd” and a “jock”. This kind of attempt to appeal to “everybody!” can feel contrived and insulting. Are consumers really simple enough to think, “Oh look, someone of my race/size/age likes pink cardigans, I guess I should too”? I am sure on some level, this process does happen, and it’s true that on the other hand mainstream shows often leave me feeling inferior, but is it possible to cultivate authentic diversity in an industry that thrives on distinctions?

FAT believes it is up to the challenge, and frankly, I think they could be onto something great. FAT seems genuinely out to find the most enthusiastic participants to bring the clothing to life, and not to fill preordained age, race or size quotas. It is inclusive-yet-informed efforts like this that will hopefully push the mainstream towards a more accepting stance. I can’t help noting how ironic it is that alternative fashion week is out to relate to the majority of people… and I look forward to seeing what FAT has to offer!

FAT runs April 21-24, 2009 in the Distillery District in Toronto.

- Esme Hogeveen