Sick and tired of the homogenous slew of reality competitions — excluding Project Runway — flying through your television’s airwaves? We sure are. Take a few minutes out of daydreaming about Tim Gunn as your own fairy godfather, and check out the contestants for this year’s FASHION POP event in Montreal. We’ve interviewed each designer, and will be featuring the winner in an upcoming issue, and if that isn’t enough POP for you, check out our features on previous winners Angie Johnson (issue 10) and By Thomas (issue 12).

REMY & MERCY by KAREN VAQUILAR

Where are you from? Where do you call home now?
I am originally from Edmonton, Alberta, but Montreal has been my home for the past two years.

What is the theme of your collection?
Carpenter / Military.

Do you find that your designs evolve or change much from the initial sketch to end product?
They change all the time. It’s fun to colour outside of the lines.

What was the first garment you ever made?
A pair of boxers I made in Grade 7 home-ec class.

If you could design the wardrobe for any fictional character, who would it be?
Spock.

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
Having only two hands.

Do you wear your own designs?
Absolutely.

What makes Montreal style and fashion different from other Canadian cities or American fashion?
The city is really youthful and playful — people feel free to do their own thing whether it’s trendy or not. Anything goes.

GENEVIEVE SAVARD

Where are you from? Where do you call home now?
I’m from Edmonton and have been living in Montreal for a year and a half.

What is the theme of your collection?
Magic.

Do you find that your designs evolve or change much from the initial sketch to end product?
I usually change designs while draping or drafting. I might come up with a better idea, or something doesn’t work one way so I try another way. I enjoy this process as much as the drawing and dreaming.

What was the first garment you ever made?
I can’t really remember what the first garment I made was, but in my high school fashion class we had to make our own prom dress. I skipped prom and got drunk with my best friend. The prom dress was never worn.

If you could design the wardrobe for any fictional character, who would it be?
Sookie Stackhouse. I’d make her many vampy sun-dresses in blood-dyed silk.

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
Deadlines. And working so much that you make yourself sick.

Do you wear your own designs?
I wear most of them quite a lot, but try not to think about myself so much when designing because it messes me up.

What makes Montreal style and fashion different from other Canadian cities or American fashion?
Montreal style? I don’t know, I don’t get out much. But I do think Canada could stand to be a little more brave, fashion-wise.

MAUDE NIBELUNGEN

Where are you from? Where do you call home now?
I’m from deep in the country. Home is really where I feel good. It changes a lot over time.

What is the theme of your collection?
Lost souls of Atlantis…

Do you find that your designs evolve or change much from the initial sketch to end product?
I don’t like to restrain myself much with a sketch, or planning too much. I usually have a picture or an idea in my head, and I’ll just start knitting, writing the pattern as I am executing it. It feels more natural to me that way. By just following what seems like the evolution of the piece, they almost become living creatures for me.

What was the first garment you ever made?
I made a lot of little things for my dolls and such since the age of 5. But the one I really reckon as the first was a beanie I made when I was 13. I took hundreds of little strings of yarn from a yarn ordering book and attached them all together to knit them.

If you could design the wardrobe for any fictional character, who would it be?
Probably a manga character.

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
Balance. I think it’s important that the collection feels wholesome — a bit of everything, in different ways — but still having all those elements matching together somehow.

Do you wear your own designs?
I used to. Back then I was only making pieces for myself. But as I have to design and produce more and more, I tend to prefer encouraging other designers by wearing their designs.

What makes Montreal style and fashion different from other Canadian cities or American fashion?
I don’t think there is a “set” look for Montreal fashion, and there’s a lot of diversity from one designer to another. We pick here and there, mix it all up, and make something else out of it — a bit European, a bit American, and end up with a totally different look.

interviews by Casie Brown
photography by Lindsey Fast

Kristina is one of my favourite people on the internet, who is always up to something interesting. Whether it’s capturing the styles of Austin and New York City over at her street style blog The Rebel Waltz, chronicling her own daily outfits, or contributing to Bust Magazine, her optimistic approach to fashion will make you want to play dress up.

How did you dress in high school?
I went to an all-girls uniform-clad high school, so my options were limited. I wore lots of big, crazy earrings and bracelets to try to “express myself” during the week. I think I got in trouble pretty regularly for my fabulously tacky accessories! On the weekend, I experimented more with things like hot pink fishnets, cut up band tees, and funky skirts. I think by senior year my style evolved into something similar to what it is now — more vintage oriented. I do find it funny that years later I’ve reverted to wearing saddle shoes and loafers of my own free will all over again.

Is there a dress code at your internship? Have you ever had to “tone down” your wardrobe for work?
No, thankfully I’ve been lucky when it comes to working and interning in non-corporate dressing environments. Sometimes I can feel overdressed or even costume-y, but people are usually pretty complimentary, especially in NYC, which is where all my internships have been. I felt more overdressed going to college classes in Texas. I definitely remember trying to tone it down a bit there. I tried to only break out the pill box hats and cat eyes on the weekend.

What has been your favourite city to take street style pictures in so far?
Initially I wanted to say New York because obviously the fashion is impeccable, but the thing is, there are so many street style bloggers in NYC that all the same pictures end up all over the internet, especially at fashion related events. Fashion week is just a street style mob scene. The chase can be fun, but also annoying. I will say that taking pics at Brooklyn Flea or summer concerts in the city is always a good time though! If I had to choose, I think I might say San Francisco was my favorite street style city even though I only spent very little time there for a few Popfests. When I did go, I liked that there seemed to be a fun, stylish ease to everyone there. Plus, I’m a sucker for cardigans and chilly weather inspired looks.

What is the most awesomely ridiculous outfit you’ve ever seen on the street?
Well, I really love that super colourful poncho/beret look in the San Francisco post, but the two pictures I think of when I read this question were the hot pink business suit and funk-tastic tie this one busy dude was sporting with no fear whatsoever, going about his day as usual, and the crazy group of awesomeness that I called the Fresh Prince Time Warp. Alone, they would’ve been pretty stylish and awesome. Together, they were unstoppable.

If you could raid any fictional character’s wardrobe, who would you pick?
Oh man, do I have to pick just one? Hmm… Definitely Marlo Thomas in That Girl. Others I’d probably include would be Carey Mulligan’s character, Jenny, in An Education, Jean Seberg in A Bout de Souffle, Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face, and Anna Karina in Une Femme est Une Femme. I like the Parisian looks of the early ’60s. These are characters who are full of effortless style and dresses to fall in love with. I think Marlo Thomas is probably closest to my actual style though, fun and flirty early ’60s. She’s also my hair icon!

I was actually just talking about how inspiring fictional characters are the other day! It’s pretty interesting to see how created characters in pop culture constantly turn up on the runway. Lindsey Weir wore a military jacket long before it was a spring staple, Angela Chase made ’90s grunge chic before the ’90s revival, Blair Waldorf single-handedly made headbands and bows popular again, Carrie Bradshaw made girls everywhere pin flowers to their blouses, and, of course, Betty Draper and Joan Harris brought ’60s glamour to the forefront. I think it was just last year that ’60s silhouettes à la Betty and Joan showed up in both Louis Vuitton and Prada. I’d say this fall season was actually pretty Marlo Thomas-esque!

Kristina’s top ten best-dressed indie bands (in no particular order)
The Bird and the Bee
Camera Obscura
Betty and the Werewolves
The Pains of Being Pure At Heart
The Secret History
Dum Dum Girls
Au Revoir Simone
The Carrots
The School
Agent Ribbons

- Interview by Anna Fitzpatrick

Some people arrive on the scene; others explode. Originally hailing from Brooklyn, Halifax, model, photographer, designer and make-up artist Myles Sexton isn’t content doing just one thing. Along with redefining what it means to be a male model, he helps organize the monthly club nights called Sodom and is working on his own line of accessories. And, yes, that is his real name.

How did you dress in high school?

For the first year of high school I was a lost soul when it came to fashion. Then I adapted the emo-punk look. Lots of skin tight clothes and girls’ pants. Oh, and I can’t forget my Converse shoes where one foot would be black and the other would be the color matching my sweater. I really battled with trying to fit in and felt like I could only dress one way. There is so much pressure in high school for kids to look a way so they can be in a clique of kids who only buy from certain stores. It’s a freaking fashion jungle!

Describe the first time you wore make-up.

My parents had gone out for the day. I snuck into my mother’s make up bag and started applying eyeliner. Before I could even finish my lower water line I heard the door open. My parents had come home. So, I freaked out, turned on the shower to disguise what I was doing and put nail polish remover on a Q-tip and tried to get it off. I ended up burning the skin around my eye. When my mother asked about it, I told her I was scrubbing in the shower and the face cloth chafed my eyes.

The next day she gave me her concealer to hide the burn. I will never forget the moment of applying the concealer under my eye. By the time I was done the concealer was all over my entire face. I looked at myself in the mirror and for the first time felt beautiful. My teenage acne was no longer noticeable, my cheeks no longer red. I finally looked the way I already thought of myself. Since then I’ve seen make-up not as a means of concealing, but as a way of unleashing the real you.

Why did you want to become a model?

I am on a mission. I am not your typical beauty. I don’t have killer pecs or lumberjack arms. I am often mistaken for a lesbian. Growing up I always wished I had an idol to look up to. I found people who were small parts of who I wanted to be but never the whole package. I know I am not alone on this earth. I am sure there are men out there who feel the same way I do. So I started modeling so that I could be the man I wish existed when I was a child, who can wear make-up and be proud, and dress in whatever he feels like. Dress without gender! That is why I wanted to be a model.

How do people react to your photographs?

When I first started modeling people told me to butch it up. I tried that for about a year before I could not take it any more. I am sure they thought I was crazy. The response has really been 50/50. People often call me a drag queen but I don’t view it like that at all. I am still a man and always will be a man. I am just tired of the stereotype of a man. I think a man is a person who is proud to be himself, whoever that might be.

Describe some of the outfits you’ve designed.

My most recent number was a Marilyn Monroe-inspired dress in black, made entirely out of video tape. Another piece I made was a chicken wire studded blazer, inspired by Lady Gaga’s crystal dress. Also, I made a piece that looked like my head and upper body were being consumed by butterflies, inspired by the Alexander McQueen butterfly dress.

How is the world of fashion changing?

In many ways I think that fashion is becoming more accepting. For example, H&M and American Apparel have uni-sex lines. Still, in North America our fashion is pretty Western-looking. We have people living here from all over the world, yet you see very little from different cultures. This is the era of T-shirt and jeans, so my question is what is going to happen to haute couture?

What are your top five style inspirations?

The ancient Aztecs
The Blonds
Lady Gaga
Agyness Deyn
Jeffree Star
Andrej Pejic (I had to add a sixth!)

Max Mosher
Photography by Shaun Simpson, Brent McCombs and Morris Green

Anja Wakeham is a designer, tailor, and all around sewing machine. She is also my mother’s cousin. On a family trip to Germany in June, I saw (for the first time since I was 14) just how hard Anja works. Though she and her husband, Dave, took some time out of their busy work days to make us breakfast and show us around Hamburg, where they live, Anja was constantly working. From restaurant uniforms to wedding gowns to her own line of organic clothing, Anja sews it all. Luckily, I had time to hang out in Anja’s home studio and hear a little about what she does.

How did you dress as a teenager, and how has your style changed since then?

As a teenager I was a punk. When I was 15 I went to London to learn more English. When I came back after three weeks I wore my new black and white checked trousers that I bought on Carnaby Street and my hair was red. My mother’s first question was: “Does that wash out?” My style is still a bit rock ‘n’ roll, but more stylish. When I started to study fashion design, the biker style was very trendy and I made a lot of stuff out of black leather and studs for myself. That was in 1989.

How old were you when you first started sewing? Why did you start?

I was 18 when I first started sewing. I still went to school and I made trousers without a zipper, because I couldn’t do difficult things like that. I just sewed loops on them for a belt and the belt would hold them up. Some people even asked me where I got the trousers from. I always knew exacty what I wanted and so I thought it was better to be able to make it myself. It happens to me all the time with other things, like shoes, that I want something that I can’t find in a shop. Sometimes it’s in the shops a year later!

Did you study fashion in school?

I studied in two different private schools in Hamburg, Germany. The first one was a one year preparation where I learned sewing techniques and how to make patterns. Later I studied Fashion Design at the AMD Academy for Fashion Design where I learned design, drawing and textile technology. Other subjects where photography, Italian, and how to run a business.

What things in particular inspire your designs?

I get inspired by films, especially historic ones. An example is a parka I made where you can fold up the sides with a pushbutton which was inspired by a Prussian cavalry uniform. It’s a modern uniform for riding your bicycle in the city. I really loved the TV series The Tudors for the costumes and I will try to use details from that in the future. I certainly always look at trends, but these days there are so many different styles, that it’s more about the shape.

What do you hope to accomplish with your designs?

My intention with everything I design and make is very easy: I want people to look good and cool. That’s all I want and I believe that that’s what fashion should be. If you wear a good piece of clothing it makes you feel good. I also think of practical details.

Besides designing your own line of clothing, what else do you do?

I do a lot of different things. I design service uniforms for the gastronomy, as well as workwear (for dentists, for example). I make made-to-measure evening dresses and bridal wear, I work one day a week as a freelancer for a company that makes sportswear, and I sew curtains for customers. I even designed and made a cuddly toy for a friend who is a cartoon illustrator. The character was an elk named Roffe.

You often use organic and fair trade materials. Why do you think that’s important?

All fabrics I am using now for my Organic Fashion collection are fair trade and made of organic cotton. Some are even hand-loom or naturally dyed with herbal colours. When I studied we had a project with a school in Berlin called HDK Universitiy of Art. The students there were studying how to create a marketing concept and corporate identity for a product. We had to form groups, and our part was to design a collection with a certain concept and they had to create the marketing. That was 21 years ago, in 1990, and I had just read something about pesticides in cotton and how dangerous it can be. I suggested to design a collection made of organic cotton. Looking back now, I was far ahead of the times, because now many labels are doing this. In the past I worked with natural un-dyed linen, because it was not possible to get organic cotton fabrics. When I was able to make my own small collection in 2009 it was clear that I would only use organic cotton.

Do your clothing designs for customers reflect your own personal style?

My own collection reflects my own style, but I also make clothing for customers how they want them, which I would probably never wear myself. I only wear certain colours, like black, white, grey, and pink.

When you’re not wearing your own designs, what do you wear?

I buy clothes from H&M, and I bought the first organic cotton T-shirts they offered. I am not willing to pay a lot of money for expensive labels. I make most of my clothes myself and I got fleece jackets and a rain-proof jacket from Jack Wolfskin. They have a good design and the materials keep you warm in the winter.

Interview and photography by Stephanie Fereiro