Lingerie has certain connotations. As a kid growing up in ’80s it meant pink, frilly, high-cut panties and a lilac satin and lace thing called a teddy that I found while nosing around in my mum’s drawer. Nothing epitomized lingerie more than Fredrick’s of Hollywood, whose catalogue you’d sometimes find in the magazine piles of doctor’s offices. This idea of the provocative, pink, frilly bombshell continues today, especially in North America with brands like La Senza and Victoria’s Secret still catering to that specific ideal.
In Contemporary Lingerie Design Katie Dominy challenges these ideas of contemporary lingerie by looking at international labels that approach the work from a design perspective. As she states in her introduction, designer lingerie is a luxury item, and this is what she focuses on here. Nothing is Victoria’s Secret about this book, unless you count the occasional Swarovski crystal or panty jewelry (which, yes, exists even in the upper-echelons of underwear).
The format of the book is straightforward—each designer (or design team, in some cases) is introduced with a short paragraph in which they explain how they got into the business. The rest is written in a simple Q&A style with questions that vary little from designer to designer, covering topics like inspiration, fabric selection and favourite collections.
After a while these answers start to echo one another and the especially dull opening question, “Who is the [insert brand name here] woman?” had this reviewer glazing over (you can only read “romantic, sexy, modern—basically, she’s me” so many times).