POP-in’ Fresh [Part 2]

Now that you’ve had the weekend to mull over half the contestants for Montreal’s FASHION POP, meet the rest!

THIRD EYE BY MARIE-JULIE DESSAIVRE

What is the theme of your collection?
The theme is ‘Ego’. I wanted to convey the character of a dark and severe woman who is sensual and irresistible: a woman possessed by her egos. The collection is dark, structured and plays with textures.

If you designed the costumes for a movie, which genre would it be?
Right now I would totally be into a movie about a wild 1970’s rock band with amazing show costumes and attitude or a really trashy/industrial/electronic band. I always wished I were in a band.

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
The most difficult part is the transition from thought to concrete. It’s hard with limited time to achieve what I had envisioned. After that it’s all about the finishes.

Do you wear your own designs?
No, I don’t wear my own designs. I design pieces for a woman that I admire and envy and I love my garments but I can’t imagine myself wearing them.

What do you think makes the Canadian fashion industry different than the American?
I can only speak for Montreal but it is definitely more European. Style is more important than brands and our industry is more and more conscious of environmental issues.

PROTOTYPE BY CATHERINE DUROCHER

What was your process for creating these six pieces for POP?
The theme was ‘zoometry’: the study of shapes and animals. But the first inspiration came from a geometric vase I bought last winter! My first step is going through all my boxes of fabric. I sort them by colours and textures to stimulate my imagination. Then I always draw. Sketching is my favourite part as I explore without limits. I study the shapes, the pattern making and the sewing difficulties. For this Fashion Pop event I want to bring a unique perspective to arts and crafts, more couture than basic.

What inspires you?
A million things! I’m inspired by geometric shapes, origami, architecture, animals, cactus, carnivore plants, insects, shades of yellow and grey, environment, society, psychology, astronomy, dreams and music.

If you designed the costumes for a movie, which genre would it be?
I like German Expressionism, film noir and strange movies like those of Tim Burton and Guy Maddin. I saw ‘Fantastic Mr. Fox by Wes Anderson’, and I would totally enjoy making all the tiny costumes for the characters in that movie.

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
To have a cohesion between each piece, to find a connecting thread. For me each garment tells a story. I much prefer creating separates than coordinated outfits. Finding the right fabric for sampling is simple but when it’s time to buy it for the production months later, the real challenge begins!

What do you think makes the Canadian fashion industry different than the American?
Canadian designers have the talent and ability to be artistic. We just need confidence, promotion/advertising and a little financial push from the industry. The Canadian population is 34 million compared to 300 million in the States, which tells you everything! On the other hand, maybe it’s good for the Canadian to have a smaller population, it forces us to become innovative and wise regarding our production.

MARKET MARKET BY AMÉLIE TESSIER (WITH ISABEL VINUELA)

What is the theme of your collection?
Our collection is about exploring the typical American look. We created subtle movement, changed lengths, used ‘wrong’ textures, changed the volume of some pieces and made others disappear. We made the collection as simple as possible, bringing a small touch of conceptual design to it because the truth is, you’d want to wear it! And we thought about that!

What was your process for creating these six pieces for POP?
Over a supper on St-Hubert Street, we made a collection like freaks, bringing to the table what we thought about separately during the week before. The funny thing is this collection has really something from both of us.

If you designed the costumes for a movie, which genre would it be?
A transparent gown that would magnify the details of the skin. The skin would become the colour and the texture of the dress by projection. It could be for the American adaptation of the book ‘Traumnovelle’ (‘Eyes Wide Shut’). But to create the fabric is another story!

What is the most difficult part of designing a collection?
The moment when you become neutral about your creations, when you worry that your collection is like any other you ever made.

How big a role does saleability play in your designs?
We can’t change the rules, we know it’s important but sometimes we feel like it stops us from going further. In another way, making our complex clothes sellable by simplifying them gives us an amazing challenge.

Interviews by Max Mosher

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