Hail Mary Katrantzou

Several pieces from the recent Spring/Summer 2011 collection.

“I believe we’ve reached a saturation point [in fashion]. The future stopped in the ’60s. Before that, you had everyone looking forward, and now it’s just a tide of people looking back. What I’m really looking forward to is the future.”* Daphne Guinness’ words echo in my head whenever I flip through the newest Fashion Week collections. “Look forward, people! Towards the future!” reverberates loudly in the back of my mind. We are as close to the future as we have ever been, and dwelling on the past is rarely a good thing. So why not approach fashion in the same way?

Mary Katrantzou‘s work feels not only like it looks towards the future, but invents an entirely new visual language. Her radical approach to creating clothes sets her apart from her contemporaries. Her past four collections were outwordly influenced by the classic art mediums of painting, photography, interior and furniture design (her mother once owned a furniture factory), but are warped with modern technology. Katrantzou manipulated the traditional methods to create a technological collage of colour and pattern. A major contributor to the uprising of digital print onto clothing, Mary is definitely looking forward.

Autumn/Winter 2009 Ready to Wear
Simplified images of perfume bottles was Katrantzou’s motif for this collection, though digitalized into abstraction.

Spring/Summer 2010 Ready to Wear
The designer manipulated prints and colours with a computer to achieve a futuristic vibe, which she certainly attained. Does the collection remind anyone else of the Space Odyssey ‘Star Gate’ sequence?

Fall/Winter 2010 Ready to Wear
Deriving influence from the work of Baroque artists, Mary created geometric explosions from 18th Century-esque textiles.

Spring/Summer 2011 Ready to Wear

The perspective, dimensions, tailoring, and concept (“putting the room on the woman, rather than the girl in the room”) are only a few things to admire about this radically inventive collection.

text by Rose Flutur
- Photography via Style.com

*Quote from Interview Mag Dec/Jan 10

4 thoughts on “Hail Mary Katrantzou

  1. I can’t stop looking at these pictures–these clothes are so beautiful and interesting. It’s really refreshing to see something different out there.

  2. Ahh, how clever is Katrantzou’s play on the hourglass silhouette in digital print? Also I love that you indulged my interest in the though behind collections by mentioning the perfume bottles. A rad review of a collection I might have overlooked.

  3. I made the mistake of browsing through the entire collection, which led to me finding the new love of my life: The lampshade skirt! She really has some divine ideas that have so much originality and quirkiness. Thanks for sharing the amazingness Rose!

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