Wornette Bookmarks

What WORN staffers have been reading and loving around the web

Wornettes love to share. It’s just the way we are. And when we find something we love, we also love to share it with each other. Here’s a roundup of some of the things we’ve been into from around the World Wide Web.

A Black Crip’s Perspective on Fashion and Embodied Resistance
By Eddie Ndopu

Eddie Ndopu is a Black Queer Crip. He also loves fashion, and he takes any excuse he can to dress to the nines, because he enjoys it. But he’s noticed that his mode of dress has become a site of resistance against ableist assumptions about his body and ableist standards of being. He argues that his conscious choice to dress in a fashion-forward, non-casual way makes people less likely to assume that he is someone who is deprived or needs charity, and in turn challenges their notions of what the life of a disabled person is like.


On Pins and Needles: Stylist Turns Ancient Hairdo Debate on Its Head
By Abigail Pesta

Janet Stephens is a Baltimore hairstylist who works at a regular hair salon during the day, but in her free time, she is an amateur hair archaeologist, and recreates hair styles from ancient times. Even better, she puts them up on YouTube, so we can see exactly how the hairstyles were done. Despite not holding a degree, she’s even written for scholarly journals about her hypotheses about how these hairstyles were done, which is a pretty big deal. Her vestal virgins video made somewhat of a stir with the fashion set online last month, and it also proved that the vestal virgin hairstyle, which scholars had long thought were wigs, actually probably were not. This is a must read for any history nerd.

ALERT: Your Vintage Clothing is Infected With Demons
By Lexi Nisita

Vintage lovers no longer just have to worry about bedbugs when buying their clothing, at least according to TV minister Pat Robertson. Apparently demons like to attach themselves to physical objects like clothing, so that ‘60s mini dress might be rife with demonic energy. The only way to prevent this is through prayer and binding friendly spirits to the clothing. No big deal. According to this logic, WORN staffers are all probably about 90% demon, so you have been warned.


‘We’re Done Hiding:’ A First Lingerie Line for Transgender Women
Chrysalis, a new NYC-based lingerie designer and the brainchild of Cy Lauz, is the first designed with the needs of transgender women in mind. The basics line will be released this spring, and features a power mesh panty that helps to create a seamless lines, and sleek, modern bras with pockets to accommodate full cup inserts. They’re also planning a couture collection that will bring this technology to other types of garments like teddies, shapewear, lingerie, and even bathing suits. Even better, all the models used in Chrysalis’ advertising are trans. It’s about damn time.

How Men’s Magazines Sell Masculinity to Young, Low-Income Men
By Amanda Hess

The media isn’t shy about talking about what the images in magazines do to affect women’s self worth and body image, but what about men’s? In this Slate piece by Amanda Hess, she examines the influence that advertising in men’s magazines like Playboy and Game Informer, which promote a heavily aggressive male archetype, has on the men who buy them.



How Fashion is Queer

By Alison Bancroft

Alison Bancroft’s short essay does away with the idea that fashion is frivolous flush that subordinates women, and instead examines fashion as a way to redefine and even ignore gender norms for everyone. Think Andrej Pejic, Ru Paul’s MAC ads, Thierry Mugler, Coco Chanel in the ’20s, and the entire concept of the androgynous fad. Almost everywhere you look in fashion, especially now, someone is challenging notions about gender in some way. “Fashion is not about shopping, and if you think it is, you have missed a trick.” We at WORN are of course heartily in favour of this mode of thinking.

Think Pink!

Alyssa Wornette shares her favorite set of ultra-girly internet snippets

Lately I’ve been floating around on fluffy pink cotton candy clouds, sipping pink tea in a lavender bath and sporting pink mittens with my new knitted cat ear hat. It seems everywhere I look, I am left helplessly fawning over whatever cutesy, fluffy, object-with-a-face meets my eye. This existence trapped within rose-tinted glasses has of course bled into my cyber activity, and inadvertently, into my link roundup:

Kittens, Unicorns, and Puppies, Oh My!
Cats riding rainbow unicorns on a pink heart background ON A SCARF? Yeah, do I need to say more to communicate the brilliance of Silken Favours? If you need to hear more to be fully converted, read this great interview with the creator, Vicki Murdoch, and learn why she thinks everyone should own a scarf.

Bubble Pop
I love K-pop. I am NOT ashamed to throw this love in others’ faces, switching the playlists at parties to my friends’ shock and dismay. Too bad. Just look at their sets, their dance moves, and most importantly THEIR STYLE! From the adorable flower crowns and cat tails of AKB48, to the yellow braids and tiger-print pants of G Dragon, this piece by John Seabrook captures a great tasting of K-pop style and sound.

“I’m the Mary!”
Growing up, Romy and Michele held the keys to my heart. Aside from their hilarious date ditching tactics (“Will you please excuse me, I cut my foot before and my shoe is filling up with blood”), they had the most fearless fashion sense and lived on a candy-filled diet. I got a 15 out of 16 on this quiz, and I’m celebrating with candy corns.

Cattoed, if only for one day
Ever thought you loved cats so much that you wanted to cover your body in them? Well, thanks to illustrator Harriet Gray, you can! These temporary tattoos are so adorable they are almost fluffy on your skin, and bonus: once your cat craze is over (if it ever is) they’ll wash right off!

Call on Me
I recently visited Pacific Mall for the first time. I walked in with a basic iPhone in an Etsy-ordered case. I walked out with a pink iPhone, complete with 3 different new cases and several accessories, like a popsicle plug for the headphone jack. I never realized phones could change with your outfits, but NEWS FLASH, it’s totally possible! The Cute iPhone Cases Tumblr validates this new obsession.

My Teenage Dream
No roundup of mine would be complete without a Katy Perry reference. We can all haggle over Katy’s upbringing, her choice of lyrics, and her politics, but when it comes down to her style and HAIRSTYLES, no one can really debate her genius. Case and point, this Glamour UK photo collection of KP’s 58 best hair days.

Très Click: Best of 2012 Edition

Haley Wornette picks a few of her favorite fashion articles from the past year

My job title is publisher, but sometimes I feel like it should be changed to lobbyist. I am really a lobbyist for the “fashion is important” agenda. The “fashion is feminist” agenda. I am staunchly pro-clothes.

I’m not going to pretend like I’m some sort of feminist hero because I believe that clothes deserve the same sort of recognition we give to other forms of creative expression—please, put your crown away, I could never take something so bejeweled—but I will share with you that I feel very, very strongly that fashion and clothing deserve way more respect in the general culture. I can talk about it for hours. Believe me, I do talk about it for hours.

Luckily for me, 2012 had some of the very best fashion writing I’ve ever seen. I’ve rounded up a few of my favourite pieces by some of the most intelligent fashion writers working today, people who share my conviction and lobbying tendencies.

Maybe a better term for my unofficial position would be fashion evangelist. Even with all the flaws, fashion and clothing are things that I believe in—I have faith that they matter. They matter in the ways we know (as ways to cover our bodies) and they matter in some pretty shitty ways (excess consumption, materialism, and greed) and then they matter in some really important ways (as evidence of our beliefs, our values, our choices, sartorial or otherwise). Here are just a few of my favorite articles from people who share my holy love of fashion. PREACH.

New York Fashion Week by the Numbers: More Models Of Color Are Working
by Jenna Sauers

In the fashion industry, I think hard data is especially important. It’s the best way to really, honestly see where the trends are—and the best way to identify where the problems are. It’s hard to deny that a designer has a problem with diversity when a chart exists that details exactly how white a runway show was.

Jenna has been tracking diversity on the runway since the Fall-Winter 2008 New York Fashion Week season, and the results are showing signs of improvement:

“This season proved to be the most racially diverse that we have ever counted. For the second time ever (and the second season in a row), white models actually comprised just less than 80% of the total model pool. Contrast that with the 87% of all runway spots that were give to white models in Fall-Winter 2008, when we began keeping track of models and race at NYFW.”

That said, this data can only accomplish so much. As Jenna pointed out in her 2010 roundup, “race is a social construct, not a fact,” and representations of beauty don’t fall into neat black or white categories.

The important thing is: “Fashion still has a long way to go before all forms of beauty are truly given equal consideration—but this season is another small step in the right direction.”

Passions Burn After Bangladesh Factory Fire
by Max Mosher

The tragedy in Bangladesh was much too familiar—as Max Wornette pointed out in his regular style column in the Toronto Standard, the devastating incident was reminiscent of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. In 1911, the horror was enough to create a union that fought to protect workers’ rights and higher safety standards; will the same happen in Tazreen?

Your Brain on Fashion
by Minh-Ha T. Pham

Suzy Menkes told AnOTher Magazine that: “I think there’s too much mixing fashion and intellect. Fashion ultimately is designed to cover the human body, to give you joy, to make you feel better. I don’t think it has to have a great intellectual meaning… to intellectualize fashion too much, to me, is just going the wrong way.” I respectfully disagree, and so does Minh-Ha T. Pham.

Pham cues up her “usual spiel,” as she puts it, to explain how “anti-intellectual discourses about fashion are so often covers for sexist assumptions about the meaninglessness of all things feminine and/or related to femininity.” I want her to say this again, and again, and then I want to shout it from a rooftop. A perfect summation of why fashion—and more importantly, why clothing—matters.

What The Fuck Is Nail Art?
by Rachel Seville

It’s no secret that I love my nail art. And I’m hardly an early adapter—I came to the trend late, after years of never painting my nails. I wrote about why I love nail art here (and here!), but I also love to point people to Rachel Seville’s handy guide for people who just want to know what the fuck is nail art?

Why Everyone Suddenly Cares About Nail Art
by Hillary Reinsberg

On Buzzfeed Shift, Hillary Reinsberg wonders about the origins of nail art—the trend of outlandish designs and 3D bedazzled elements has been popular in black communities for quite awhile, but now that the trend has gone mainstream (and now that the Times is ON IT), that seems to be a key fact that’s missing from all the coverage. There’s also a class element involved here—nail polishes are easy ways to allow people who can’t afford a hula hoop bag to participate in a brand. Reinsberg speaks with editors from Allure, New York Magazine, and Robin Givhans to get an alternative perspective on the trendiest trend of 2012.

Who Needs Halloween? Girl, 8, dresses as historic figures all year
by Jennifer Carlile

Ugh, ugh, my ovaries: an eight-year-old girl in Nebraska wears a different historical costume every day of the school year, drawing inspiration from the book “100 Most Important Women of the 20th Century.”

Reddit Users Attempt To Shame Sikh Woman, Get Righteously Schooled
by Lindy West

There has been a LOT of talk about the evils of the Internet this year (and in readings unrelated to fashion, I would highly recommend Adrian Chen’s article on Violentacrez and Patrick McGuire’s ongoing series on what really happened to Amanda Todd), but I do believe the Internet is just an extension of the real world. Sometimes, the real world is so sad and mean and horrible you just want to shut it down forever, but sometimes, someone who was publicly shamed for her facial hair on Reddit writes an eloquent explanation for why she is not ashamed and why her faith is more important to her than conventional ideas of beauty, and the person who did the shaming listens and responds with a real heartfelt apology, and as Lindy West says, on those days, our hearts grow three sizes.

What’s So Bad About A Boy Who Wants To Wear A Dress?
by Ruth Padawar

Seriously, though: what IS so bad about a boy who wants to wear a dress? Ruth Padawar interviews several families with children who identify as gender-fluid or gender-variant and looks into the history of people who challenged traditional gender norms. Padawar writes:

“The parents of boys in that middle space argue that gender is a spectrum rather than two opposing categories, neither of which any real man or woman precisely fits…. It might make your world more tidy to have two neat and separate gender possibilities,” one North Carolina mother wrote last year on her blog, “but when you squish out the space between, you do not accurately represent lived reality. More than that, you’re trying to ‘squish out’ my kid.”’

Boy With Down Syndrome Becoming An Unlikely Ad Star
by Tim Nudd

Early in 2012, Ryan, a child model with Down Syndrome, was featured in catalogs by Target and Nordstrom, featured exactly where he should be: modeling clothes right beside his neurotypical peers. As the father of another child with Down syndrome and the author of the blog Noah’s Dad says: “This wasn’t a ‘Special Clothing For Special People’ catalog,” he writes. “There wasn’t a call out somewhere on the page proudly proclaiming that ‘Target’s proud to feature a model with Down syndrome in this week’s ad!’…. In other words, they didn’t make a big deal out of it. I like that.” To read more on clothes, fashion, and Down Syndrome, read our interview with the owner of Downs’ Designs.

What Fashion’s “Ethnic” Prints Are Really Called
by Connie Wang

“Ethnic” and “tribal” prints are high up on the list of useless, nonsensical, and offensively bad, yet ubiquitous, fashion copy. Connie Wang of Refinery29 correctly points out that “Lumping all similar prints into one group or referring to them by a descriptor rather than their real names is just as silly as calling jeans “blue pants,” and helpfully provides a comprehensive vocabulary lesson so that we can all learn the difference between ikat and batik prints. Slate also detailed the history and the contemporary problems facing manufacturers today here.

Authenticity at Jane and Finch: African Dutch Wax Fabrics
by Adwoa Afful

On the Ethnic Aisle, Adwoa Afful explains how learning about Dutch Wax prints became part of learning about her family, herself as a Ghanian-Canadian, and how “Dutch wax prints have come to represent one way West Africans express themselves sartorially.”

Girl Talk
by Autumn Whitefield-Madrano

One of my favorite blog discoveries of 2012 was The Beheld, a collection of thoughtful essays on beauty and all that it can mean. The articles are also cross-posted on The New Inquiry (another favourite). I loved and related to her honest admission in Girl Talk: sometimes, she feels awkward around women, and she uses compliments on their shoes or their hair or some element of their appearance as a way to fight that awkwardness. I know I definitely use this as a way to superficially connect with new friends, and I’ve been the recipient of it as well. I think Autumn is exactly right when she says that “something frivolous can come out of my mouth and I’m fairly certain it doesn’t make me seem frivolous. It simply lightens me, desirably so.”

Cindy Sherman’s Superstar Strategy
by Sarah Nicole Prickett

SNP writes about the retrospectives for Francesca Woodman at the Guggenheim and Cindy Sherman at the Met: “And so Sherman has survived where Woodman did not: In assuming the whole lot of female and feminine (and sometimes masculine) identity, she’s given away precious little of herself. Her work is fashion. It is facade. It’s defence.” Every word of this article is perfect and beautiful: read it for yourself and see.

Is there an article about fashion from 2012 that you’d like to share? Tweet it at @wornjournal and use the #clothesmatter tag, or leave it in the comments.

Très Click: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles Edition

What Haley Wornette has been reading on her travels


Before leaving for New York, I loaded up my iPhone and tote bag with some truly excellent articles, books, and zines. They really came in handy when I found myself lost on the G train, stuck in the back of a cab, or standing on a street corner trying to look busy when I was actually just way too early for a meeting. Here are a few of my favourite fashion-related reads; enjoy!

When We Were “Seventeen”: A History In 47 Covers
Jane Hu traces the history of Seventeen from the initial editor-in-chief, Helen Valentine, to its current, shall we say, flawed state. I was fascinated to discover that Seventeen began with such a noble goal—to talk with teenagers, not at them—and was inspired by Valentine’s original directive to readers: “Say you agree with SEVENTEEN or disagree violently, say we’re tops, say we’re terrible, say anything you please—but say it!”

Portrait of the Artist as a Postman
Kermit Oliver is the main character in this real life fashion fairy tale from Texas Monthly‘s October issue. “There once was a postman who designed scarves for Hermès,” Jason Sheeler begins, a seemingly simple premise to this article. Oliver sorts mail by night and paints impossibly beautiful Hermès scarves by day, but it’s not just the odd juxtaposition of his two careers that make this article so compelling. Sheeler tells us a story about art, race, class, family, and genius, and on the day that I read it, I became one of those people in New York who cry in public.

Original Plumbing
On Saturday, the Wornettes and I visited the New York Art Book Fair to see their legendary zine tent. We spent some time speaking with the people behind Original Plumbing, an amazing zine that describes itself as “the premier print magazine dedicated to the sexuality and culture of FTM trans.” I picked up the Fashion Issue for the WORN office and highly recommend it.

What have you been reading lately? Tell us in the comments!