Rebel Rebel

Teenage angst is alive and well in this photo essay

By: wornette

A couple of our high school co-op students (affectionately deemed ‘wornlings’) collaborated on an awesome photo essay inspired by their teenage experiences, and the rebel rebel character was born. Rebel rebel embodies the carefree spirit and cravings of teenage girls who feel restricted by the fear of public judgement (whether they come from girls that talk behind your back, the guys that broke your heart, or those adults that just don’t understand you). As the passionate emotions of young love’s inevitable ‘shitty break-up’ sink in, she blooms into a tough chick, purely from the pain of it all. A little bit Patti Smith, a little bit Debbie Harry, and a touch of No Doubt, she learns to say “Fuck It” to things that don’t matter. She no longer cares about how she’s supposed to act or behave or DRESS. She throws her ‘parental-approved good-girl’ clothes in the toilet. (Literally.)

Styling and Words // Zoe Vos
Photography // Laura Tuttle

Pretty, not Punk

The best of the "worst" at the Met Ball

By: Eva Voinigescu

The annual Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Benefit Gala tends to be the one place celebrities experiment with their fashion choices. Of course, this means the press’s worst-dressed lists are twice as long as best-dressed ones. But they’re SO wrong. Sure, pretty much no one stuck to the night’s “Art Punk: Chaos to Couture” theme, and in their failed attempts and pure disregard for it, the collective group of attendees managed to pull together one of the most lackluster, all-over-the-place set of gowns I’ve seen in a while. But luckily some people had the good sense (and you might be surprised who) to embrace the experience and show some life with their choices. In the end these controversial pieces made our best-dressed list.

1 // Kim Kardashian, Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy

When I first saw this dress on Monday night I thought it was awful, but I couldn’t really look away. The dress’s built-in gloves and peony floral print put me into an optical illusion-type daze from which I somehow emerged a fan (okay, it also took a little cajoling from some fellow Wornettes who pointed out that this may just be the best thing Kardashian has ever worn). It breaks all the so-called rules of wearing prints or dressing during pregnancy. It’s adventurous and sophisticated and hugs every-last curve. Kanye West was heard singing, “Let nobody bring you down, you’re so awesome” to Kardashian during his performance at the event and I couldn’t agree more. By not letting her pregnancy dictate her style, she’s suddenly become a role model for us all.

2 // Katy Perry, Dolce and Gabbanna

Over-the-top accessories aside, Perry managed to dress up without over doing it in this Fall 2013 beaded and sequined dress. It shines and sparkles with religious glory and makes a canvas out of Perry’s form. She’s known for her theatrical costumes, so the unconventional choice doesn’t surprise me, but just how much I love it kind of does. Maybe it’s my pleasant memories of gleaming mosaics in Venice’s San Marco Cathedral (the designers were inspired by the walls of Sicily’s Catedral de Monreale). Or maybe it’s the teased curls, pale skin, and burgundy lips that are just dramatic enough to stand up against the dress while inspiring images of a castle-dwelling renaissance woman. Either way, she looks like the kind of sparkly religious idol you’d gladly take home as a souvenir.

3 // Kristen Stewart, Stella McCartney

Looking closely at the first three entries on this list, I’m surprised at how my expectations have been defied by women who are not typically commended for their fashion choices. Granted, K-Stew is often styled in admirable pieces, but the visible discomfort with which she wears them almost always undermines the effort. In the case of this jumpsuit however, the choice of pants over a dress seems to put Stewart more at ease. Meanwhile, the lace paneling adds a feminine touch, and the matching burgundy eye shadow brings out her signature steely gaze.

4// Zachary Quinto, Designer Unknown

Blue hair does not a worst-dressed candidate make, though that is what some other lists would have you believe. God forbid any of the men in attendance try to dress in line with the night’s theme. The history of men’s fashion has a lot more to offer than just slim-cut tuxedos, after all. Quinto’s tailored vest and crisp white shirt paired with satin paneled pants and gold detailed loafers gave him a pirate-like appeal, while the blue-tipped diagonal Mohawk reminded everyone that dressing up should be fun.

5 // PSY, Designer Unknown

Why Psy was at the Met Ball at all remains a mystery to me, but he put some A-list celebrities to shame with his attire. A short red and black checkered jacket with thin lapels and a single button harkened the punk theme while his black and white wing-tipped shoes and round sunglasses added a touch of ’50s glamour. This is how to do put-together punk.

6 // Solange Knowles, Kenzo

So both Knowles sisters missed the theme of the night, but Solange out-wowed her sister by far. Staying true to her bold print, big hair style in a black and mazarine wave jacquard split-front dress by Kenzo, she looked like she took a cue from her sister’s Foxy Cleopatra wardrobe. It was one of the few blue dresses on the carpet and Solange’s confidence sold it. She looks like a sexy ’70s goddess and we love it.

Fashioning the Final Frontier

Is fashion plotting a new course and boldly going where no man has gone before?

By: Alex Chronopoulos

Final frontier

On April 10, 2013 the ROM hosted a panel discussion featuring designer Jeremy Laing, Ryerson University School of Fashion chair Robert Ott, branding and fashion lawyer Ashlee Froese and Nicholas Mellamphy, Vice President and Buying Direction of HBC’s The Room. They gave their two cents when the marvelous Jeanne Beker asked the hard-hitting questions: How does one deal with the fashion industry pressures? What does it mean to be Canadian in the industry? Is Victoria Beckham really a fashion designer? It was an eventful hour and a half.

Here’s how Star Trek factors in: Remember that episode when the Enterprise runs into the space probe Nomad, whose mission is to “find and sterilize imperfection?” No? Okay. Basically the episode delves into the man versus machine mythos that also underlined this panel discussion. Whilst no Borg were present, Mellamphy made the interesting conclusion that the industry can now be summarized as: online shopping vs. retailers and bloggers vs. journalists. These are two huge topics, and seeing as resistance is futile, let’s just get right to it.

Call me old-fashioned, but I much prefer shopping in-store. Granted, we all have those days when we just don’t want to wear real pants, but this virtual world lacks helpful salespeople and the thrill of the hunt. We lose, to borrow a line from Confessions of a Shopaholic’s Becky Bloomwood, the excitement of grasping the handles of a bag knowing that the goodies inside are yours. Like me, the panelists had their reservations. Although Mellamphy acknowledged that online retailing provides a solid platform for emerging designers, making their products accessible to all, he made the point that retailers now have to come up with innovative ways to attract customers to their shops. Ott was concerned with how this sudden surge of online shopping had dramatically affected retail stores, such as The Bay. The virtual world is convenient, and though it’s not entirely bad, it has lowered sales and could put many out of work. We want what we want and we want it now. The Internet can give us this. Real stores take more effort. And with that, Scotty, beam us to our next issue.

Fashion bloggers have shaped this new generation of “Internet dressers,” as Laing likes to call them. They have become the new fashion authority. But is it really authority when practically every under-30 has a different opinion? Do we even care about fashion authority in this day and age? The Jeanne Bekers and Suzy Menkes‘ of this generation are the thousands who have access to Tumblr and Instagram. And this seemed okay with the panel, because it meant fashion had become democratized, everyone can wear fast fashions and everyone can express their opinions on it. Even fashion shows have become affected by this radical change. Long gone are the days of the whimsical McQueen or Galliano show, as Beker reminisced. Now, Laing pointed out, shows are created for Instagram. Designers are responding to the iPhone generation, opting for low-key, minimalist approaches that would surely impress the always logical Mr. Spock.

The panelists gave me a lot to think about, even as I frantically tried to copy down everything being said while maintaining my cool—alas, it was my first time at one of these events, and a girl’s gotta start somewhere. I did get my (beloved) photo with Jeanne Beker and left thinking that despite the constant and radical changes that face it, the fashion industry can handle what is to come and live long and prosper.

Japanese? Yes Please!

The best of Tokyo Autumn/Winter 2013/14 Fashion Week

By: Megan Patterson

Tokyo Fashion Week took place the same week as our fashion week here in Toronto (TWINSIES) last month. Here in Canada, the weather was still appropriately chilly enough to keep us in the spirit of the Fall/Winter collections that were being shown, though the story in Tokyo was a bit different with the sakura trees in full, pink bloom.

Tokyo fashion is known for a lot of things, most notably for not being boring, and I have to say, in this regard the collections did not disappoint. Streetwear tends to reign supreme, and you can always expect to see a lot of playing with pattern, colour, and proportion. Most importantly, Japanese designs are always fun.

MR. GENTLEMAN

First of all, how could you not like this collection based on the name alone? Japanese brands always have the most delightful names (there is a store in Shibuya called Nude Trump, which is probably my favourite). MR. GENTLEMAN is the brainchild of two Tokyo veteran designers, Takeshi Osumi from menswear brand PHENOMENON and Yuichi Yoshii, who is known for organizing the VERSUS TOKYO shows.

The look at MR. GENTLEMAN is classic English prep with a twist. The preppy look is pretty popular in Asia, but because it doesn’t have the same cultural connotations as it does in the West, Asian designers tend to have a lot more fun with it. In this collection the tweed shorts are paired with matching boutonnieres on the jackets, and dress shirts have boxy, high collars.
You’ll find the full collection here.

Facetasm

Pronounced “Facet-asm,” Facetasm has become one of the more well known Tokyo fashion brands since its debut in 2007. Facetasm is classic Japanese streetwear through and through. The A/W 2013 collection is pretty futuristic looking, but some of the skirts almost look like pleated kimono. This kind of haphazard layering is very Japanese. I’m pretty sure I could never pull it off, but here it looks amazing.

Leather and shearling manskirts make up the menswear side—this is not the only collection that seemed to have them. I officially call a trend! Facetasm’s certainly look like they’ll keep your junk warm and cozy (feel free to use this in your marketing copy, Facetasm).
The full collection can be viewed on Style.com.

Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets

See what I mean about the names? I don’t think I would want to go to a gut’s dynamite cabaret though. Sounds messy. Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets is notorious for its drag queen following. It’s definitely a fun, edgy show, and A/W does not disappoint: love all the fur and patterns. I think some of those coats might even be warm enough to survive a Canadian winter. I am also in lusting for the tights in this show (LEOPARD PRINT!). Japan has the best patterned tights ever, and this will not be the only show in which you see them. I even know where to buy them, but unfortunately I am neither short nor thin. Someone please buy some and make me insanely jealous.
See the full collection at Women’s Wear Daily.

Dresscamp

Dresscamp really played with pattern and structure, and this collection has some really amazing detailing that only becomes apparent up close (this dress, for example, whose skirt is actually made up of small, laser cut and edged pieces of fabric). Leopard print is also heavily featured. For women, flower inspiration is evident (a bit weird for a winter collection, but I guess that’s probably the time of year when you need to look like a plant the most). In menswear, the military, both past and present, seems to be heavy influences.
See the full collection at Fashioninsing.

mercibeaucoup

Mercibeaucoup’s fall 2013 collection is for the free spirit in all of us who doesn’t believe in tight pants, or tops, or really feeling constrained by their clothing at all. This free spirit is also obsessed with soccer. This is an extremely Japanese collection, with a typically Japanese sensibility towards both prep and streetwear. And while it’s not really my personal style, I definitely want this graphic, oversized sweater in my closet.

See the full collection at Style.com.

Anrealage

Anrealage definitely falls under the spectrum of classic and pretty, but regardless I absolutely love this collection (especially the dresses that are inspired by kimono). Also love? The wigs made out of paper. This is also one of the few collections where the models are wearing a heel. It’s a very low heel too. I’m not sure why (maybe it’s because everyone has to walk and commute so much), but flats or platforms rule the Tokyo streets more than heels do, and that’s been reflected in pretty much all the fall collections. See the full collection at Fashionising.

Jotaro Saito

Jotaro Saito is one of Japan’s youngest kimono designers (he launched his first collection at 27), and he comes from a long line of traditional Japanese fashion artists. His grandfather was a dye artist, and his father is also a kimono designer. Jotaro Saito takes a different, more modern approach to kimono design, however. Saito aims to design “kimono as fashion matched with modern space.” His kimono definitely are cut and patterned in a much sleeker, more modern style (and definitely with a bit more leg showing). I particularly love the patchwork look on the women’s kimono, and the braided belts on the men’s.

See the full collection here.

Araisara

Pretty much all of the jackets in this collection are perfect and I want all of them on me right now, but especially the blazer-y one. No wait, especially this sheer, cape-y one. And the flower peplums! So much good tailoring at Araisara. I mean…great? Too busy coveting to care.

See the full collection at Fashionising.

motonari ono

Motonari ono’s fall/winter collection is also completely killing it on the coat and blazer front. While it is largely warmer in Japan than in North America in the winter, but I’m still not sure why we’re seeing so many tailored shorts with bare legs looks across a lot of the collections. At motonari ono, they’re small and floral, and wouldn’t look out of place on a Mori Girl (albeit a very high fashion one).

See the full collection here.

Christian Dada

It’s like The Crow decided to give up revenging and became a fashion designer. This is a compliment, because there are GIANT BLACK WINGS ON THE SHOES. HOW IS THAT NOT THE BEST THING EVER? This collection does not give a fuck about looking pretty, and you’ve got to love that.

See the full collection at Fashionising.