Personality Drives Fashion

A character we can relate to brings fashion to life on film

Fashion documentaries, like fashion itself, are aspirational. They’re about getting special access to the people and processes behind a world we often experience only through very intentionally constructed visuals (editorials, clothing displays, staged blogger street style). A good documentary shows us how our fantasy fashion worlds are constructed, and forces us to think about them differently. But as our appetite for more access, more insight, more fashion grows, the quality of the offerings can suffer.

In Matthew Miele’s newest documentary, Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s, what we are promised is an insider’s look at one of the most famous high-end department stores to grace New York’s Fifth Avenue. What we get instead is over 100 interviews with designers, celebrities and employees espousing the store’s luxury and exclusivity for the better part of an hour and a half. Christian Louboutin calls it the epitome of luxury in a department store. Oscar de la Renta tells us there is no place better than Bergdorf’s to help a woman express her femininity. The idea that women can’t wait to become lawyers so that they can afford to buy a pair of shoes at Bergdorf’s is bandied about. Despite over a hundred years worth of history and personalities to choose from, Scatter My Ashes doesn’t do what is essential in storytelling: it doesn’t find a focus.

Interesting personalities are passed over for big names. In the fashion world, Linda Fargo, Bergdorf’s artistic director and head buyer, is as powerful as Anna Wintour. Fargo’s purchasing decisions can make a designer’s career and also decide for the public, via the trickle down effect of fashion, what the next big trend will be. With Fargo on board, Miele had the opportunity to show us how retail buying at such a high level shapes all tiers of the industry. Instead, we briefly see Fargo turn down an unimaginative line from Ally Hilfiger and are none the wiser as to what drives her decisions or how the whole process works.

Then there’s Betty Halbreich, one of the store’s top personal shoppers. A woman well past middle age, Halbreich tells it like it is, not hesitating to let million-dollar clients know when things look terrible. Bergdorf’s best personal shoppers, like Betty, draw in around $500,000 (USD) in commissions per year but we only get minutes to hear from her.

Finally, there’s David Hoey, Bergdorf’s senior director of visual presentation. Hoey spends the better part of the year choosing a theme, commissioning special designer dresses, and corralling a team of artists to create mosaic sea-life and jewel-encrusted polar bears, all to suit his vision for Bergdorf’s annual holiday windows. He is the interesting personality who can drive the story and guide the viewer behind the scenes of elite visual merchandising. Unfortunately Miele does not commit to making him the centre of the plotline, splicing his story in amongst designer cameos and depriving us of a character we can relate to.

In the movie, Hoey describes the task of window dressing for the masses: “you have to be very highbrow and silly at the same time,” he says, “so everyone will enjoy it.” Miele tries to apply the same formula to editing Scatter My Ashes, but with fashion documentaries, we don’t want the shallow overview we already have. We want flaws and toil and reality. We want someone whose shoes we could imagine filling.

Here are six fashion documentaries whose subjects let us dare to dream, in a way Scatter My Ashes never quite manages:

Boss Women: Anna Wintour – Magazine Editor
Anna Wintour is notoriously calculated and reserved. She has done more for the VOGUE brand than any editor-in-chief before her, but has shared very little about herself in the process. In this 50-minute long BBC documentary, we hear much more from Anna about her process, and even her family, than we ever see in The September Issue, reminding us that underneath the armour, a living, breathing human (albeit a very shrewd one) does exist.

Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel
It’s hard to tell how many stories are true and how many are made up in this 2011 documentary, but as fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, editor at VOGUE, and special consultant at the Metropolitain Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Vreeland was an expert at turning fantasy into reality. Through interview clips and narrated excerpts from her biography, The Eye Has to Travel demonstrates how Vreeland personified fashion’s artistry and storytelling down to the very last fibre of her being.

Visionaires: Tom Ford
Tom Ford bluffed his way into a design position with Gucci on a Parson’s degree in architecture and worked his way up to the top job there, at Yves Saint Laurent, and eventually at his own namesake label. In an intimate piece for the OWN Network, Ford reveals his creative process (it includes taking three or four baths a day), talks about his childhood (“I remember telling my mother ‘your hair’s wrong, this is wrong, I hate those shoes, you shouldn’t wear that, that sofa’s ugly’”), and insists that he just has a knack for knowing what the next big trend will be. He is self-confident to the point that it is hard to like him, but he has such clarity of vision and is so accomplished that you can’t help but admire him.

Bill Cunningham’s New York
In Bill Cunningham’s New York, we see how Cunningham’s weekly On the Street column is put together, going behind the scenes at The New York Times and with New York elite to dispel the fabricated fairytale world depicted in the final product. The former milliner’s child-like enthusiasm is infectious, and his unique photographic vision and unusual personality push the story forward and keep us engaged.

The September Issue
The September Issue is a look at the process behind putting together VOGUE’s famed September issue, the largest magazine of the year. Viewers get to see the incredible amount of detail it takes to put together a VOGUE editorial spread and what role a creative director like Grace Coddington plays. She doesn’t put on airs or shy from conflict, but remains perfectly likeable, and that makes her a star.

Valentino: The Last Emperor
We can’t help but be drawn into Valentino: The Last Emperor with its extravagance (palaces and yachts and thousands of hand-sewn sequins) and simplicity (a sketch of a gown drawn with a mere flick of the wrist). “This was the best thing for me to make dresses, I am a disaster in everything else,” he tells us. It seems unlikely. Watching him deftly maneuver his last collection is both fascinating and bittersweet and even though we may never imagine ourselves living his life, this film serves as a good reminder to value and nurture our talents, however limited we may believe them to be.

Fashion Education

A collection of Wornette-approved fashion links from around the web

History: What Did The Renaissance Man Wear? Historian Recreates Outfit from The 16th Century
Change your outfit and change your fortune. Sounds like a fairytale, doesn’t it? Maybe not. A researcher at the University of Cambridge has discovered that dressing for success may have helped one German wine merchant’s son-turned accountant catapult into the nobility. Dr. Ulinka Rublack and dress historian Jenny Tiramani have recreated a piece worn by Matthäus Schwarz based on one of the many detailed portraits Schwarz had commissioned of himself wearing items from his prized wardrobe. The replicated outfit is helping to illuminate the role fashion played politically and socially during the Renaissance. The original item, which was worn by Schwarz on the occasion of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V’s return to Germany after a period of Protestant uprising, demonstrated his respect for the Emperor and commitment to the Catholic faith, and according to Rublack, played a role in Schwarz’s ennoblement a decade later.

Home Economics: Standard Apparel: Our Clothes Don’t Fit and They’re Falling Apart
Sometimes a short piece manages to say so much with just a few carefully selected words. Such is the case with this piece by Linda Besner. As “the first generation for whom made-to-measure clothing is exotic” explains Besner, we adorn ourselves with items manufactured to a standard size meant to fit everyone and no one at the same time. Never before had I considered placing the blame on anyone but myself for the feeling of shame I get when I try something on and it doesn’t fit. By reminding us that for generations clothing was made to the specific measurements of the individual, Besner helps us realize the absurdity of constructing pieces for someone without knowing any specifics about their shape and size. She also touches on other important topics such as garment quality and the human costs of mass production, but what struck me hardest was the thought of just how many women might have a better body image if all of our clothes were custom made to fit.

Social Studies: Pop-Up Museum of Queer History Tumblr
In the 12th issue of WORN, Max Mosher took a look at the evolution of fashion in the gay community in his piece entitled “Out of the Closet.” It is an informative look into a history of the LGBT community that is not widely known or accessible. The Brooklyn-based Pop-Up Museum of Queer History, a grassroots organization dedicated to creating temporary exhibits celebrating LGBT history does the same thing with it’s Tumblr. Quick, digestible posts like this one of a couple in 1946 Greenwich Village give us a window into a way of life that was at that time largely hidden from view. Even though wearing men’s clothing had become more acceptable during the World War II, the sartorial choices of the two women in this photo would still have drawn attention to themselves.

Sex Education: My Gucci Addiction
Until I read this article by Friday Night Lights author and contributing editor at Vanity Fair, Buzz Bissinger, it had never occurred to me how gendered my interaction with fashion media has been. I rarely read about fashion from the male perspective. Bissinger’s account of his complicated relationship to fashion and addiction is a very personal story that doesn’t speak to the fashion experience for all men, but it does dispel the all too commonly held idea that an unhealthy addiction to shopping is the plight of women alone. Bissinger has spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on designer items, feeding his leather fetish and providing him with the kind of stimulation he once got from writing. Bissinger himself doesn’t discriminate between women’s and men’s fashion, wearing both and seeing the former as having an “unfair monopoly on feeling sexy.” Nevertheless, clothing has given him a way to “transcend the rigid definitions of sexuality and gender” and reading this piece might help do a bit of the same for the rest of us.

Art: Rumours I’ve Heard about Anna Wintour
As the most talked about woman in fashion and the Queen of Condé Nast, Wintour holds in her hands the power to turn—whether we like it or not—the tides of fashion. But with great power comes great scrutiny, and Wintour has had more than her fair share. Sometimes, however, the rumours come in the form of gently prodding, oddly flattering cartoons like these by illustrator Lisa Hanawalt, published by The Hairpin a few years ago. “Anna Wintour does not have bowel movements. But she does lay stunning eggs,” reads the text on one hilarious drawing in the series. What Hanawalt imagines happening to those eggs is even better.

Eva Wornette

Our new editorial intern wornette reminisces about clothing items past, and balancing the bold with the basic

Growing up in the suburbs of Ottawa, I used to ride my bike to the Quickie Mart and the video store to buy Bop and Teen Beat and rent Clueless. I loved Cher’s plaid mini-skirts and knee-high socks but felt most at home in the baggy jeans and flannel shirts of my ’90s generation. I’ve felt torn between contrasting styles ever since. From preppy to bohemian, punk, and vintage, I’ve experimented with many looks but rarely felt confident enough to pull them off. Instead, I’ve settled on a wardrobe of neutral basics in which I always feel at ease.

Reconciling my casual personal style with the more adventurous fashion items I admire is where my love of fashion media comes in. Magazines, blogs, memoirs, and friends allow me to explore my love of bolder pieces vicariously. As someone who works out the world through writing, telling stories about fashion has given me an outlet for working through my bold vs. basic conflict. Every once in a while, it has even pushed me out of my comfort zone and into the beautifully tailored studded-shoulder romper that sits in my closet far too many days of the year. I can’t think of anywhere better than WORN to (ever-so-gently) push me even further.

Current Inspirations

Menswear Dog
Usually I don’t condone exploiting your pet for the sake of entertainment, but this website combines two of my favourite things (dogs and fashion) impeccably. Funny as it may sound, the outfits are a great starting point for a menswear-inspired look, and Bodhi’s re-creation of outfits from Ryan Gosling’s leading movie rolls are eerily on point.

Anthology Magazine
This quarterly home décor and entertaining magazine embraces the fact that people still appreciate a physical print publication and, like WORN, its beautifully decorated and photographed editorials are timeless. As someone whose love of design goes far beyond fashion, I find Anthology’s coverage of creativity in all facets of living inspiring, and reading it has encouraged me to take more pleasure out of everyday activities like cooking dinner and organizing my work space.

NPR’s Tiny Desk Concerts
Over the past year I’ve found myself drawn more and more to public broadcasters and the unique stories they bring to us. I also love intimate concert sessions à la Black Cab Sessions and La Blogotheque, and this set from NPR is just as addictive. All Songs Considered host Bob Boilen’s desk is the perfect venue to showcase the voices of musicians like First Aid Kit, and the shows are the perfect soundtrack for a lazy summer afternoon.

National Geographic Found Tumblr
Pulling from 125 years of archived National Geographic photographs, this Tumblr includes everything from portraits to travel photography and key moments in history. In doing so, it manages to document fashion from all around the world over the past century without even trying.

Cupcakes and Cashmere
This blog has been around for ages but it never stops putting a smile on my face. Emily is like the cool older sister I never had, and starting my day off with her newest post just feels right. Her style is casual and accessible and her posts about food, fashion, and her home inspire me to appreciate the everyday.

text // Eva Voinigescu
photography // Paige Sabourin

Pretty, not Punk

The best of the "worst" at the Met Ball

The annual Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Benefit Gala tends to be the one place celebrities experiment with their fashion choices. Of course, this means the press’s worst-dressed lists are twice as long as best-dressed ones. But they’re SO wrong. Sure, pretty much no one stuck to the night’s “Art Punk: Chaos to Couture” theme, and in their failed attempts and pure disregard for it, the collective group of attendees managed to pull together one of the most lackluster, all-over-the-place set of gowns I’ve seen in a while. But luckily some people had the good sense (and you might be surprised who) to embrace the experience and show some life with their choices. In the end these controversial pieces made our best-dressed list.

1 // Kim Kardashian, Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy

When I first saw this dress on Monday night I thought it was awful, but I couldn’t really look away. The dress’s built-in gloves and peony floral print put me into an optical illusion-type daze from which I somehow emerged a fan (okay, it also took a little cajoling from some fellow Wornettes who pointed out that this may just be the best thing Kardashian has ever worn). It breaks all the so-called rules of wearing prints or dressing during pregnancy. It’s adventurous and sophisticated and hugs every-last curve. Kanye West was heard singing, “Let nobody bring you down, you’re so awesome” to Kardashian during his performance at the event and I couldn’t agree more. By not letting her pregnancy dictate her style, she’s suddenly become a role model for us all.

2 // Katy Perry, Dolce and Gabbanna

Over-the-top accessories aside, Perry managed to dress up without over doing it in this Fall 2013 beaded and sequined dress. It shines and sparkles with religious glory and makes a canvas out of Perry’s form. She’s known for her theatrical costumes, so the unconventional choice doesn’t surprise me, but just how much I love it kind of does. Maybe it’s my pleasant memories of gleaming mosaics in Venice’s San Marco Cathedral (the designers were inspired by the walls of Sicily’s Catedral de Monreale). Or maybe it’s the teased curls, pale skin, and burgundy lips that are just dramatic enough to stand up against the dress while inspiring images of a castle-dwelling renaissance woman. Either way, she looks like the kind of sparkly religious idol you’d gladly take home as a souvenir.

3 // Kristen Stewart, Stella McCartney

Looking closely at the first three entries on this list, I’m surprised at how my expectations have been defied by women who are not typically commended for their fashion choices. Granted, K-Stew is often styled in admirable pieces, but the visible discomfort with which she wears them almost always undermines the effort. In the case of this jumpsuit however, the choice of pants over a dress seems to put Stewart more at ease. Meanwhile, the lace paneling adds a feminine touch, and the matching burgundy eye shadow brings out her signature steely gaze.

4// Zachary Quinto, Designer Unknown

Blue hair does not a worst-dressed candidate make, though that is what some other lists would have you believe. God forbid any of the men in attendance try to dress in line with the night’s theme. The history of men’s fashion has a lot more to offer than just slim-cut tuxedos, after all. Quinto’s tailored vest and crisp white shirt paired with satin paneled pants and gold detailed loafers gave him a pirate-like appeal, while the blue-tipped diagonal Mohawk reminded everyone that dressing up should be fun.

5 // PSY, Designer Unknown

Why Psy was at the Met Ball at all remains a mystery to me, but he put some A-list celebrities to shame with his attire. A short red and black checkered jacket with thin lapels and a single button harkened the punk theme while his black and white wing-tipped shoes and round sunglasses added a touch of ’50s glamour. This is how to do put-together punk.

6 // Solange Knowles, Kenzo

So both Knowles sisters missed the theme of the night, but Solange out-wowed her sister by far. Staying true to her bold print, big hair style in a black and mazarine wave jacquard split-front dress by Kenzo, she looked like she took a cue from her sister’s Foxy Cleopatra wardrobe. It was one of the few blue dresses on the carpet and Solange’s confidence sold it. She looks like a sexy ’70s goddess and we love it.